I think the longer you live and the farther you travel, you begin to realize how little you need and how little you really want. And my prediction is that years from now, on my deathbed, I will realize that all I really wanted from life was to walk barefoot through beautiful lands with the sort of people who illuminate the world with kindness and good vibrations. And maybe to swim so far that I actually transform into a mermaid…
Anyway, day three began with a coffee run and a quick drive to North Shore. Julia and I picked up another smoothie bowl, the Pitaya (AKA Unicorn food), topped with fresh fruit and honey. YUM!
We took our meal to a place called Shark’s Cove and enjoyed watching grouchy looking crabs scuttle along the slippery rocks, every so often getting swept away by larger waves. We watched groups of snorklers gingerly enter the cold water, and wondered if we might get a front row seat dictating why this particular cove was known as “Shark’s Cove.” I’m happy to report that nobody became a snack.
We met up with surfer Brent, our friend from yesterday and rented a board. Julia had been surfing years ago in Australia and decided it was not her cup of tea, so Brent and I took off after waxing up the board. Here’s my experience of surfing: Paddle, paddle, paddle, “Well this isn’t so bad,” she thinks as she turns to look back at shore and notices that she hasn’t moved but 10ft. Wave sweeps overhead, “Yummy, salt water in the eyes, my favorite.” Paddle, paddle, paddle, starts breathing heavily. “Sweet, momentum!” I make it out to where the bigger waves are 10 minutes later (Brent only had to drag me along 3 or 4 times), and following the directions he gave me on shore, I was primed and ready to have Brent push me into one of the big waves….wait….WHAT?!
“Start paddling!!” He yells, excitedly!
“Oh God….” I think to myself as I leave the safety of my instructors side. I can hear the wave behind me as I quickly pick up speed. “I never made a will,” is my last thought as I come to me knees and then feet, “who will get my wind instrument collection when my body washes to shore.” And then the impossible happens. I stand, in full on surf guru, ocean-badass ninja-hood, and ride this wave in like its an extension of my body. “Holy shi…..” the “t” never made it out considering my excitement and premature victory screech caused me to step forward slightly on my board and nosedive into the now shallow waters of the Pacific. But the fun thing about your surfboard is that it’s buoyant, and wants to keep riding the wave. So I rode the underside of the wave for a moment or two and then emerged. Brent was laughing, and so excited for me when he caught the next wave to where I had washed up. The moment was euphoric. I nailed a few more waves, but mostly sipped on salt water. But what a fun time! I wish I lived on the ocean so that I could really explore this pastime!
We grabbed smoothies in town and then Julia and I took off for Kailua. We had our sights set on a pretty popular hike called the Pillbox Hike. Pillbox was really neat. Steep, but short, and with two bunkers at the top completely decked out in graffiti.
In true Lauren-hiking fashion, I suggested we try running down the trail in order to save daylight for swimming. Julia was game and so we began ninja-diving down this ridiculously steep mountain. My go pro footage made me straight up nauseous it was so shakey!
We grabbed food and then ran straight into the ocean, back at Lanikai. It was another beautiful sunset, and the water was cool and refreshing. After meeting up with one of my lovely college friends, and her boyfriend for a drink, we went back to Bobby’s and I fell asleep in a matter of minutes. What a great day!
So today I realized that all I really want and need is to know and love kind people, old or new to me, and to be so exhausted from a day of exploring the world, that I slip right into a deep and dream-filled sleep.